Crossed the border from Malawi to Zambia on Sunday night. I had overstayed my visa by 7 days – the immigration dude gave me two choices – prison or a US$12 bribe. I went with option 2.

Went to South Luangwa National Park on Monday. Took two game drives and saw a parade of elephants, a tower of giraffes, a raft of hippos and a dazzle of zebras AND three leopards and two cubs. Twas very very cool. Camped on a platform in a tree. Had to walk around a hippo to go from the bar to the tree at night! Dad you would have loved it – riddled with birdies, got a photo of the Africa bush chook for you (Guinea fowl).

Made our way down through Lusaka arrived in Livingstone yesterday and went to Vic Falls today where I left the group I’d been with for the last three weeks. They are off to Zimbabwe for another week. Its the end of the dry season and the falls were not pumping but were still spectacular. I’ll check it out again in a month or so.

Last night we played black jack with Zambian Kwacha – making bets with 50 kwacha notes. US$1 = ZK 4500. So the bank in total had about 50 cents, and 30 notes.

Heading for Mwandi tomorrow, awaiting my ride. Staying tonight in a funky little backpackers. Finally flying solo!

Will get photos up tomorrow maybe.

Have just arrived in Blantyre, southern Malawi having just spent 5 nights travelling south along the shore of Lake Malawi at Karonga, Kande Beach and then Monkey Bay. It was as if we stepped out of Africa and into Bali. Beautiful. You can swim in the lake but not near the reeds because of some liver infesting worm (bilharzia?) and you don’t swim at night because of hunting crocodiles (someone spotted 4 this morning a bit after 5am). Apart from that it’s as safe as houses.

We have visited permaculture sights at four ‘normal’ schools and an orphans school. The first school we went to had 1057 students “AGAINST” 8 teachers – CRAZY. The other schools had a similar ratio of at least 100 students per teacher. As you can imagine the kids were totally out of control. They behaved like a school of fish – if you stay still they gradually came closer to investigate you but any quick movement sent them scrambling and falling over each other. They were none the less gorgeous though and I got some great photos. It was a pretty amazing experience. And it was impressive to see what the schools were achieving in such crappy circumstances.

We have also seen a permaculture garden at a hotel and at a home in Monkey Bay, where we stayed the night. The people on the trip are awesome – a really mixed bag that functions beautifully as a unit.

Tomorrow (Monday) we head for Chipata on the border between Zambia and Malawi then onto South Luangwa National Park where we (apparently) have a good chance of seeing a leopard. Should be arriving in Livingstone on Thursday with a bit of luck.

“Cruisin in a safari bus. Last night at Luwawa Forest Lodge. Now at Mzuzu, headin for Karonga. Then south along Lake Malawi. All good, great people, yummy food.”

Am near Lilongwe, Malawi at Kimbali Lodge for the 9th International Permaculture Convergence. It started on Monday 2nd but I was a day late thanks to being stuck in Bahrain for 2 extra days. Am sharing a thatch-roofed  mud-hut with 3 yanks. Showers are outside and toilet is long drop. No power, only kero lanterns. But living conditions are significantly better than the caravan. Think I’ll just stay here.  Food is delux, local, organic. Many interesting/stimulating workshops and conversations.

After the conference, about 15 people are doing a Permaculture site tour in a safari bus that will go through Malawi then onto Zambia and Zimbabwe. I’m thinking about joining and disembarking at Livingstone which will put me about 150km away from Mwandi on about Nov 17th.

I’ve been absolutely hammered by mossies but so far no malaria…and all is good.

“This conference is being held at Kimbali Lodge. Madonna was here last thursday. She’d booked out the whole place for 2 weeks.”

“Have just landed in Lilongwe, Malawi. Now for International Permaculture Convergence…”